A Prelude To Colorado 2014

Triumphant atop mighty Mount Sunflower after an arduous and daunting climb. Photo by Dave Socky

I can't believe it has been eight years since I last went out West, but that trip - to Idaho - was way back in 2008. Way too long, especially considering that several years in the past twenty I have made as many as three trips out in a single year. That's obsession! The last few years I have concentrated on trips to the Northeast, another region I dearly love and am far from being done with, but going West again was long overdue and I found myself justifiably and expectedly excited! Now, after committing to my buddy +David Socky late last year to going to Colorado this year, and hoping that nothing would come up to prevent it, the day had finally arrived!

Planning was uncharacteristically lackadaisical early on, beyond making an attempt to climb 14,259' Longs Peak the primary goal and desire of the trip. Excepting myself and Dave being in, the other details were fuzzy at best but had the number of people potentially interested running as high as eight or nine people. It was more or less a given that we would drive out though, and that the bulk of the trip would be spent in Rocky Mountain National Park, and perhaps the adjacent Indian Peaks Wilderness. Eventually the group solidified at four, with +Stephanie Petri  and Bill Walker claiming spots, while others either never committed in the first place or had to back out. I found it kind of exciting that this would be the first time that either Steph or Bill had ever been out West, and knowing how it has affected me, I couldn't wait to see their reactions to all the awesomeness I knew we were going to experience.

With only a couple of months left to go, the real planning finally kicked in and we started ironing out details, creating an itinerary complete with alternatives and some openess, and making any necessary arrangements and reservations. We ultimately settled on spending the bulk of our time in Rocky Mountain National Park, where we would do a couple of dayhikes, a three day backpacking trip, and a climb of Longs Peak. And we couldn't go all the way to Colorado without Steph and Bill having an opportunity to bag the state highpoint, so we allowed for a couple days around Leadville for that, and possibly for La Plata Peak as well.

With only a few weeks to go, it seemed that Bill would not be able to get quite enough days off work to allow for the drive, but he decided he could fly to Denver and we could pick him up after our two day drive, and drop him off again at the end of the trip, thereby allowing him to leave after work on a Friday and fly back home the following Sunday while the remaining three of us would leave on a Thursday and return home two Mondays later. This wasn't necessarily ideal for Bill, as he was actually wanting to join in the cross country drive, but at least he could still do the important stuff, and it would make the drive out for the remaining three of us much less cramped in the car. 

The Facebook post said: "We're coming to kidnap you and make a run for Colorado Rick!". Photo by Steph Petri

The last few days really dragged by but the excitement levels increased, then Dave and Steph, whose journey had already started a couple hours earlier, pulled into the driveway and it was finally time to go! I loaded my slightly excessive amount of gear into the car, kissed Leanne goodbye, and we hit the road. "Suffer-fest 2014" was underway! Well, actually the itinerary seemed a bit less ambitious than my usual "vacations", but we were going to be dealing with significantly higher elevations than usual -  a fact that would compensate for the lower average daily miles and elevation gains compared to the trips I usually plan to the Northeastern mountains.

Things were uneventful the first half of our non-stop drive, but excitement levels increased as we knocked off the Eastern states one by one. Virginia went fast and West Virginia only took a couple more hours. Then we slowly passed through Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois before reaching the psychological point of crossing the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers at the so-called "Gateway To The West" of St. Louis, Missouri and its iconic arch around the not too bad hour of 10 p.m. Beyond here it was all new ground to Steph, and we rolled into Kansas about four hours later.

As it turned out, our timing didn't allow Steph to really witness the gradual progression from the forested East to the treeless Great Plains. Excepting the always present small islands of them, we had already left the trees behind us when dawn began to break. Now we were but small specks in the oceanic vastness of the open prairie, mostly about as flat as you can imagine, but still with occasional rolling terrain in the form of low and very broad "hills" if you want to call them that. It is actually a pretty neat experience, especially the first time. If you have lived your whole life in the forested East and the Appalachians, it is hard to imagine just how flat, open, and expansive the Plains can be until you experience it in person. And though it mostly lacks the rugged landscapes we were heading for, the farther one moves into this region the more they begin to feel like they are in "The West". We had dropped down to an elevation over 14,000 feet lower than the hoped for high point of our trip on Mount Elbert when we crossed the mighty Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, but through the night we had imperceptibly climbed back up to 3,000' when we stopped for breakfast in Oakley, Kansas.

Searching for the Kansas state highpoint. Photo by Dave Socky

Maybe it's on top of that hill...

It's that way!

Conquering mighty Mount Sunflower (or getting conquered by it?). Video by Dave Socky

We were now only a couple hours away from the first objective of the trip, the Kansas state highpoint of Mount Sunflower. The drive there gained us yet another thousand feet of elevation - and put us within a couple thousand feet of horizontal distance from the Colorado state line, where the landscape continues on just as flat as Kansas. Dave had been here once before, only a year ago, but it was a new state for the completion list for Steph and myself, and my first new one in several years which just bumped me past the halfway point with 26. While indeed very flat, this 4,039 foot high "summit" is indeed the top of a hill, complete with two closed 20' contour lines surrounding it on the topo map. There is a neat summit marker and, despite our joking around, I actually found it to be a surprisingly pleasant spot with views for miles around and a feeling of being somewhat remote thanks to its distance from the interstate and the relative scarcity of people and houses anywhere nearby. Happy with our prize, we headed into Colorado.

It took a couple more hours, but finally, near the town of Limon, the snow-patched heights of the Rocky Mountains began to show on the horizon, almost like apparitions at first, then slowly becoming more real. This is always an exciting moment after a cross-country drive through the plains, but was especially so for Steph since it was her first visit. I remember well how emotional I felt the first time I saw 14,110' Pikes Peak looming up some 80 miles away with snow still on its upper reaches in late August of 1994, and it seemed equally so for her. In fact, she was almost giddy with an excitement that only continued to build as we gradually drew closer to the landscape of enchantment. It was really fun to witness this, and I knew she was going to have a great time. I knew I was too, and I was fully expecting this to be my best trip ever to Colorado.

Later this night, after making a run into the Denver REI, gawking at Longs Peak towering above all else 45 miles away, and having some dinner, we picked up Bill (and Steve M F Wolf) at the airport then turned in for a few hours before our true adventures began...

Traversing The Mount Rogers High Country

Wow, I can’t believe how far behind I’ve allowed myself to get on this blog. I’ve got a sizeable backlog of hikes to catch up on, but at least the heat and rain have sapped my motivation lately and caused the list to stall, rather than keep growing. On the other hand, the hot weather of Summer makes this entry even more timely, because it is a place to escape the worst of the heat.

Since starting this blog, it was only a matter of time until I had a chance to get back up into the Mount Rogers High Country. Though it is incredibly difficult to pick one place over all others, this is quite possibly my favorite area in all of the Southern Appalachians. That is really saying a lot! There are many reasons for that, but for the most part I can narrow it down to a few key things. It was one of the first really awesome places I went when I first started hiking, which helped get me hooked. The windswept open grassy balds, huge rock outcrops, and stands of dark and damp boreal forest are incredibly scenic. The latter is directly related to the 5,500’ plus elevations here, far higher and cooler  than anything else in Virginia, and gives the whole area a distinct climate with wild weather that decidedly subalpine, and much like what one encounters in the mountains of the Northeast, often cold, windy, and concealed in the clouds. I wasn’t there, but snow, sleet, and freezing rain all occurred on June 30, 1979! It is another world, quite unlike anywhere else in the state, and I have seen it referred to in print as “a little piece of Montana set on the rooftop of Virginia”, or something along those lines. I don’t know specifically what part of the Big Sky state they had in mind, but I can say from personal experience that if it was possible to set Wilburn Ridge down in the western foothills of the Wind River Range, near the town of Pinedale in Wyoming, it would blend right in. A dense network of trails and abundant, dramatic views are yet another draw for me. Then there are the “wild” ponies, awesome rhododendron displays in June, acres of blueberries in August, frequent and impressive snowfalls and rime accumulations in Winter. Being close to home and readily accessible doesn’t hurt either. All taken together, even though the “High Country” here is certainly not the most dramatic area I have ever been, it is probably more responsible than any other single place for having nourished my love of the mountains, and will always be a special place for me, no matter where I may find myself. Suffice it to say, one blog post is not going to do it justice.

Haw Orchard Mountain (left), Wilburn Ridge, and Mount Rogers (right) seen from Stone Mountain.

The area that I generally refer to as the “High Country” may be a little different from what is “officially” designated as such, but, in my mind, it is all of the terrain above 4,000’ in elevation on the massif that forms Mount Rogers and Whitetop. It does not include any of the terrain above that elevation on the nearby Iron Mountains, which are also part of the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, but have little else in common to my way of thinking. Narrowing things down even more, a smaller area on the high, open ridges of Stone Mountain, Pine Mountain, Brier Ridge, and Wilburn Ridge that is near or above 5,000 feet is generally referred to as the Crest Zone, and is one of the main attractions to the whole area. This makes up the bulk of the scenic “Big Sky” terrain that these highlands are famous for. Ironically, for the most part, it is not natural. It was heavily logged and subsequently burned in the early 1900’s, and the harsh climate and poor, rocky soil made recovery a slow process. At some stage along the way, it became the scenic wonderland it is now, and the Forest Service acquired it and decided to try and maintain these open qualities with management practices such as controlled burning and grazing. It works for me!

On this particular hike, I met up with my friends +David Socky , +Stephanie Petri , and +Brian Williams . Stephanie had never been here before, so I came up with the idea of a nice, long shuttle hike that would hit most, though not all, of the highlights. I casually suggested that we start at the lower trailhead, hoping no one would think too much about it, and we dropped off one vehicle at the 4,460’ gap of Elk Garden, the high pass between Mount Rogers and Whitetop. Then we dropped down to the 3,600’ trailhead for the Lewis Fork and Cliffside trails. I also sort of neglected to mention that the Cliffside Trail, which we would be going up, is probably the steepest trail for any considerable distance in the High Country, but this also makes it the shortest approach to the Crest Zone from the north, getting one into open country in only about 2 ½ miles. It gets more interesting just shy of the two mile mark, when it steepens considerably, then quickly enters the lower edge of the boreal spruce-fir forest that is one of the defining features of High Country.

Looking up at the higher crags on Wilburn Ridge.

Typical scenery on Wilburn Ridge.

Today was a great day to be up there, a mid-Spring beauty of a day neither too hot or too cold, but just right. It was sunny and clear,  with a cool breeze and decent visibility up on the high ridges. After we topped out at the upper end of the Cliffside Trail, we headed away from Mount Rogers, something Brian dryly pointed out numerous times over the next few miles as we got farther and farther away from it, as it was one of our destinations for the hike. We were out in the open with awesome views of craggy Wilburn Ridge as we followed the Crest Trail to Scales. This was once the site of an old weighing station, now gone, for the cattle that once grazed in the High Country when it was privately owned, and is now a major intersection of trails up here. We joined the Appalachian Trail here and continued through the meadows atop Stone Mountain, where the views of Wilburn Ridge are, if anything, even more austere and impressive - but still not the best. Along this leg of the hike, the rugged little summit of Big Pinnacle on Haw Orchard Mountain is also seen from one of its better perspectives. This is also one of the more exposed areas in the Winter, with little shelter from the wind for a mile or more.

Then we headed back into the woods for a while, dropping down to the tannin-stained headwaters of Wilson Creek, already a decent sized little trout stream at an elevation higher than all but a small handful of Virginia’s highest peaks. Near here we encountered one of the trademark bands of the “wild” ponies that roam the mountains here and help to maintain its open character. There were a couple of young foals with their mothers and Stephanie had an acute case of “cuteness overload”, one of several that occurred over the course of the hike.

Stragglers along the trail.

The trail then begins its climb to the highlight of the hike, making its way through one of the best blueberry picking areas here along the way - though it was months too early for that tasty reward. That happens in August, not April. Soon after crossing Quebec Branch the trail comes out in the open once again, just shy of 5,000 feet above sea level and begins what I consider to be the finest 2 ½ miles of hiking in Virginia, as well as a strong contender for that distinction in the entire Southeast as far as I’m concerned. Others are free to disagree, but I don’t think any would be disappointed if they are here on a good day. This is now mostly open, park-like terrain with huge, rugged outcrops of pink granite (actually rhyolite), and just enough heath and small stands of red spruce and fraser fir to give it a sub-alpine appearance. The trail weaves between the outcrops at this point, but there is ample opportunity to scramble up any of them just for fun, as we did. The summit of this “little piece of Montana” looms another 500 feet above and looks very much unlike typical Southern Appalachian terrain. Even the magnificent Roan Highlands and the similar high country of the Shining Rock Wilderness lack the massive rock outcroppings found here. It is strikingly scenic, and the views only get better as you climb higher on the ridge. Soon, we were beginning to look over the top of 5,100’ Haw Orchard Mountain, the lowest of Virginia’s three ranked  5,000 foot peaks, and see the rugged peaks of North Carolina’s Amphibolite Mountains in the distance, including Three Top, The Peak, Elk Knob, and Snake Mountain among others, with Grandfather Mountain and the Roans visible even farther away. A little higher up, today, as I almost  always do, we left the AT to stay on the rougher Wilburn Ridge Trail. This more spectacular route stays right on the crest of the ridge and goes directly over the next two rocky caps, and is the crème de la crème of the trek. Upon reaching the next rocky cap at about 5,300’ there is a sublime view of Mount Rogers and Brier Ridge, with Whitetop rising up in the distance, while close at hand the apex of the ridge reaches higher still in stark, rocky magnificence. There is a bit of mild scrambling on the trail, but opportunities abound for much more if you like that sort of thing. I do, and we did indulge in making the hike harder (a.k.a. more fun) than is necessary. If the weather is good, as it was today, there is no finer place to take a break and just enjoy some of the best scenery in the state.

C'mon little fella. Photo by Dave Socky

We continued on to the next equally high summit, which is the highest point on Pine Mountain and where Wilburn Ridge ties in to it, the view open to the north to reveal a long swath of Clinch Mountain beyond the closer Iron Mountains and across the Great Valley. This spot also looks down on Rhododendron Gap, the place to visit in early June when the entire area is shades of pink and purple with a floral display of its namesake flowers second only perhaps to the famed Rhododendron Gardens on Roan Mountain. There is another fun scramble route down from here that I have only seen one or two other groups doing before, but is easier than it looks. Naturally, we went that way and dropped down into the gap, which really isn’t much of a gap in the normal sense of the word, though the area immediately to the southwest would qualify as such. This is another major intersection of trails, with at least five ways to go, and can be confusing on a cloudbound day - especially if you have never been here. But it is a wonderful spot to be lost, surrounded by meadows, rhododendron, awesome outcrops, boreal forest, and possibly some wild ponies. Had we turned right at the top of Cliffside, we could have been here hours earlier. I took evil delight in mentioning this, but only jokingly, because had we done so, we would have missed much, including Wilburn Ridge.

High on Wilburn Ridge, looking at Whitetop rising up beyond the meadows of Brier Ridge.

Fun on Wilburn Ridge.

Scrambling and happy! Photo by Dave Socky

Brian and Stephanie atop Wilburn Ridge. photo by Dave Socky

Brian and Stephanie at Rhododendron Gap.

Another enchanting mile-and-a-quarter took us over Thomas Knob and past the A-frame Appalachian Trail shelter that makes for such a great place to spend the night, or just get out of the weather for a while. Just beyond here, we took the ½ mile spur trail that leads to the 5,729’ apex of Virginia, that being Mount Rogers. Not a bad place for Stephanie to claim her very first state highpoint! While there are no views from here, and I do sometimes lament that, the top of what was once known as Balsam Mountain, or Big Balsam Mountain, is still a delightful place, almost neon green with moss and ferns, the former covering almost everything and the latter filling in all the niches, while the smell of Christmas trees permeates the air. This is Virginia’s biggest sky island of boreal forest, and one of the biggest in the Southern Appalachians. It’s also one of the few such places that the balsam wooly aphid hasn’t nearly decimated the lovely little Fraser Firs, as is the case on the heights of the Great Smoky Mountains and the Black Mountains.

Trout Lily

Atop 5,729' Mount Rogers, the very tiptop of Virginia.

The scenic hits don’t end here though. After returning to the AT, there is more easy walking through this Canadian type forest to the delightful grassy saddle on Brier Ridge and its spectacular views of Whitetop, which is Virginia’s number two mountain, and an exceptional hike in its own right - as is this saddle itself if one wanted a shorter hike with a big payoff.

We took the Virginia Highlands Trail from here to Deep Gap, then rejoined the AT there, now back down in the hardwoods and only a couple miles from the end. But there was another treat just ahead. As we started traversing along Elk Garden Ridge, we soon entered the beginning of a long stretch of trail that was bordered on both sides by one of the better displays of trout lilies I have ever seen. As far as the eye could see through the woods, the forest floor was speckled yellow with the drooping blooms of these beautiful little flowers. Then one last open view north and south from the grassy knoll overlooking Elk Garden and we were finally done with one of the finest long walks to be found in these mountains I call home.

Photo by Dave Socky

The route of our traverse. To see a larger map click here.
Note: There seems to be a problem with the default map view I have selected not showing properly. Please select the map you prefer from the drop-down menu in the upper right hand corner of the map.

Hike stats: 18 mile shuttle hike, 3,750' cumulative elevation gain

Map showing most, though not all, of the trail system on the Mount Rogers massif. The color coding shows all of the terrain above 4,000 feet and 5,000 feet. To see a larger version of this map click here. If you zoom out far enough, this map displays ALL of the terrain in the Lower 48 U.S. states that is between 4,000-4,999', 5,000-5,999', 6,000=6,700', and then all of the terrain out West that is higher than 6,700', and therefore higher than anything in the Eastern U.S.

Pictures from this hike.

Pictures from other hikes in the Mount Rogers High Country (There are no duplicate entries, these are all different hikes)
November 2012
August 2012
July 2012
May 2012
May 2012
May 2012
January 2012
December 2011
December 2011
August 2011
July 2011
June 2011
May 2011
February 2011
January 2011
January 2011
September 2010
September 2010
July 2010
June 2010
May 2010
January 2010
November 2009
September 2009
August 2009
August 2009
July 2009
June 2009
June 2009
May 2009
February 2009
September 2008
August 2008
June 2008
April 2008
January 2008
November 2007
August 2007
August 2007
June 2007

Resources:
gpx, kmz, topos for this hike
gpx, kmz, topos - Master Files for majority of trail system
USFS Mount Rogers NRA page
Grayson Highlands State Park site
Friends of Grayson Highlands
Hiking Upward post
Mid-Atlantic Hikes Grayson Highlands Circuit
Mid-Atlantic Hikes Grayson Highlands 2
Mid-Atlantic Hikes Mount Rogers Backpack
Mid-Atlantic Hikes Little Wilson Creek Wilderness




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Cliffside Trailhead coordinates:
36.69217°, 81.51954°

Elk Garden Trailhead coordinates:
36.64627°, 81.58332°

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Cliffside Trailhead

Elk Garden Trailhead